Summer in the Southern Ocean – 2, Tierra del Fuego

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29th – 31st December 2023

It was a tired couple of travellers who arrived at the airport in Ushuaia, on the island of Tierra Del Fuego at the bottom of Argentina, after leaving home almost thirty six hours previously. Fortunately, we had no formalities to complete. Finding our coach and being transported to the Arakur Hotel on a rocky outcrop, high above the town, was straightforward.

We repaired to the hotel bar to share a club sandwich for supper, washed down with a lovely Argentinian Malbec. There were splendid views over the town, the harbour, the Beagle Channel and the mountains of Chile, with some patches of snow still visible, on the other side of the Beagle Channel. It was still daylight at 10.30pm. We had stayed here on our last visit, but the hotel had more guests this time, and the bar seemed livelier.

We had just over a day and a half in Ushuaia before we were due to board the ship. This time we wanted to visit Tierra del Fuego National Park, which sits astride the border between Argentina and Chile, but there is no border crossing. In fact, to be able to drive north from Tierra del Fuego through Argentina, you need to cross the border into Chile, take a ferry and then cross back into Argentina!

We remembered the Arakur Hotel for its infinity pool with its fantastic views and also pleasant walks around about. So, after a gym session, on a rather hard floor, we headed to the pool, with its various jacuzzies and swam outside. The wind deterred us from staying too long outside. Peter even had to rescue somebody’s towel which was in danger of disappearing down the hillside! We also managed a brisk walk up to the viewpoint.

We took the hotel shuttle bus into town, in search of a coffee shop and some lip balm. It resembled a typical mountain resort town, with the usual hiking and skiing shops and mountain peaks towering over it. We were very lucky with the weather, but despite the occasional sunshine, many visitors on the main shopping street were in warm puffer jackets, with scarves, gloves and woollen hats.

The population has been encouraged to grow (with electronic components imported for assembly) and now approaches 100,000. We could see a couple of large cruise ships in port, so the main street was busy. It was a successful trip, culminating in us managing to get on the crowded minibus back to the hotel for the first of many briefings by members of the Expedition Team, together with a cup of tea.

Tierra del Fuego National Park

We had managed to secure two extra places on a tour of the National Park arranged by the hotel, departing at 8am on embarkation day. Our battle to obtain Argentinian Pesos at Buenos Aires airport came into its own as we had to pay in Pesos to enter the park. There were no ATMs in the forest.

There were three stops inside the park, with commentary from a local guide. We alighted for a thirty minute walk to the viewpoint over La Pataia bay. It was great to stretch our legs in the mountainous countryside. The air was fresh and the sun shining.

We then drove to La Pataia bay for a loop on the boardwalk. Peter had brought coffee and a couple of muffins in his backpack, which we enjoyed a little bit back from the busy loop. This is peak season and the park was due to get very busy as the day wore on.

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There was instructive signage along the walk, illustrating the lives of the indigenous tribes that first inhabited Tierra del Fuego. As expected, they failed to describe the horrific genocide conducted against them as Argentina and Chile battled to establish superiority in the southernmost tip of South America less than 150 years ago. Of course, they rightly pointed out the terrible deaths caused, in ignorance, by European missionaries trying to clothe the naked natives in garments which carried alien diseases.

Then to the Correo Postal más Austral del Mundo at El Costera, (the Post Office), which was no bigger than a garden shed, where we spent a full 30 minutes queuing to get our passports stamped and buy and send a postcard to mum. It was windy and getting busier.

Our last stop was at the beach of the beautiful Lake Acigami near the border with Chile. We took a few steps away from the parking area and enjoyed the tranquillity. Back at our minibus, Peter enjoyed a shot glass of Legui, an Argentinian sweet liqueur. The weather was glorious, the scenery marvellous.

The entrance to the park is about 8 miles from Ushuaia, along route N3, which resembles a dirt road as one approaches the Park, and despite the trucks, spraying water on the road, the traffic was soon creating billowing dust clouds. There is a narrow gauge railway that takes passengers into the Park, but that was long ago fully-booked.

A delightful interlude, well worth the visit.