A trip to the Amazon
Sunday-Tuesday, 3-5 May
Peter’s Heart of Darkness
After helping Lynne to check into her accommodation in Cusco for the next two nights, we walked back to tour base hotel, the Sonesta. This is where the rest of the group were assembled for our departure to Puerto Maldonado and our journey into the Amazonian rainforest.
A short ride to the airport, a comfortable wait at the gate, a twenty five minute flight on an A320 took us to Puerto Maldonado, a 200,000 inhabitant city. An important city by the confluence of two mighty rivers, Rio Madre De Dios and Rio Tambopata, which grew in importance with the rubber trade.
We embarked on a comfortable small river boat after descending a rickety set of wood steps and planks. A three hour journey, at good speed, took us deeper and deeper into the jungle, evoking Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness.
Halfway on our river journey, daylight faded, the sky darkening with red tinges, as the sun dipped below the horizon. In silence, our darkened shadows felt, rather than saw, the rushing river and the looming jungle on each side. We all privately marvelled at the captain’s ability to safely navigate the broad river in pitch black, aided only with the occasional stab of light from a powerful torch.
Arming ourselves with our head torches, we disembarked in pitch black onto planks and wooden steps. The lodge communal area consisted of a large dining area with a small and comfortable bar.
A long wooden decked walkway took us to our individual cabins. Spacious and cool, it offered a lovely toilet and gorgeously hot shower. Plus a plastic box to keep snacks in, denying insects the pleasure!
Next morning
A brutal departure of 3am saw us assemble for the rickety walk back to the river boat. We were to ride for 2 1/2 hours up river to view Macaws and other parrot type birds “eating clay”.
We were gratefully provided with warm blankets, as we sped up the river. The captain this time aided by a lookout man at the front, spotting rocks and sunken tree trunks, signalling with rapid, coded light beams.
Path to Darkness Navigation Keeping warm
At sunrise the birds assemble in great numbers to intake necessary minerals for themselves and their chicks. Unfortunately, heavy mist, and later hot sunshine, made most birds think twice, and come back another morning. Nevertheless, we still enjoyed the colourful spectacle and bird calls.
A makeshift breakfast was followed by the journey back to the lodge, with occasional stops on the way to look at alligators and a family of Capybaras, feeding away on the river bank.
Alligator dozing Captivating A family of Capybaras
We had a couple of hours to ourselves (mainly catching up with sleep) before lunch and our next expedition. This time about an hour’s journey downriver.
A brisk 35 minutes muddy walk through the jungle took us to a lake, with a spacious raft awaiting us. We had two nature guides with us, who took turns in propelling the raft.
The hope was to see the ‘top of the food chain’ – otters. None were spotted, and we stopped to do some piranha fishing, marvelling at the teeth!
As it was starting to get dark, we were elated to float nearby a family of otters, feeding on a huge fish. We heard the cracking of bone as they tucked in, with the ‘children’ screeching to be fed. What an amazing experience!
It was dark as we retraced our steps along the muddy path, embarking our boat for the journey back to the lodge.
It had been a long, long day, so after a decent meal, Peter retired alone to the bar and enjoyed a magnificent Pisco Sour – the first of this holiday!
Next morning, Peter decided not to join the group for a pre-dawn walk to a viewing tower, which allowed him some extra time in luxurious sleep.
It was yet another early start to take the boat back to Puerto Maldonado, this time taking only two hours, as we were travelling downstream.
Boat back Nice Plaza Naval Square Lunch!
After Wilson gave us a brief guided tour, we lunched and spent a little time in the sun baked Plaza. Peter and Vivien found a bank ATM and enjoyed a coffee, before boarding our van to take us to the airport for our flight back to Cusco.
Lynne’s oasis of calm
Lynne had been cautioned against going to the Amazon, as there was an outbreak of Yellow Fever in Puerto Maldonado and at over 60, too old to have a live Yellow Fever vaccination. The alternative of covering up to avoid a mosquito bite was unattractive because Lynne always gets bitten.
Instead, she had a couple of nights booked in a lavish, but tranquil 16th century mansion, Casa Cartagena, with only 15 suites, a spa and gym. She was looking forward to recuperating from her gastroenteritis in her own time, with no set agenda, some leisurely walks in Cusco, reading a book and a visit to the spa.
Lynne had already been to jungles in Malaysia, Nepal and Sumatra, and was really content with her lot; there really was no other choice.
She enjoyed the use of the gym, a yoga session and a glorious massage. She visited Zac’s sister’s beautiful jewellery shop, which she did not leave empty-handed and walked up and down Calle Siete Borreguitos and to the Acueducto Sapantiana,(recommended by Don and Shirley) which were all in the vicinity of the hotel.
She even managed to make it to a finally open San Pedro Market! However, she was very very careful about what she ate, even foregoing the hotel’s free nightly Pisco Sours!
Back together again
Reunited on the third evening, the three amigos delighted in a first class meal at Moreno, with a table overlooking the square. It was perfect in so many ways, but perhaps slightly over-ambitious for Lynne, but building her strength for the next more strenuous part of the journey.
Recommended! Overlooking the Plaza Peruvian gorgeousness
