13th – 14th September
On our way to Berlin
After a super smooth passage, Stena Germanica nosed its way into the Kiel Canal to berth at the Schwedenkai. We disembarked after failing to find a croissant anywhere for breakfast. The Swedish lady at the buffet entrance did not even seem to know what a croissant was! A cheese bun for Peter and a Yoghurt for Lynne then!
We had received clear instructions that we head left out of the quay but did a double-take when the signage directed us right! A 20 minute walk to Kiel Haubtbahnhof found us early enough to consider taking an earlier train – judicious, after our earlier experiences with delayed trains. This turned out not to be possible, so we settled down for a second breakfast at the Crobag, involving croissants, on a platform bench. The station was elegant, small, tidy and peaceful in comparison to any other city station. Our train arrived at the right platform, and, to our relief, departed only one minute late.
The journey was to be just over one hour to Hamburg Hbh, to change to the train taking us to Berlin. The changeover time was manageable at 17 minutes. Except… oh dear… the train progress kept on slipping. Peter’s app informed us that we would “probably” make the connection. But progress was slow – laaaangsam! An announcement boomed out, as we managed to catch a bit of it. Something about changing at Hamburg Damm-something station – the one before we were due to change.
A quick check on the app – yes, our next train would also stop there. Then Peter’s app changed its mind – no, the connection at the Haubtbahnhof would definitely NOT be achievable. Quick decision – on with rucksack, collect all our bits and pieces – and, Geronimo, out we bailed!
Hamburg Dammtor station is a commuter station, increasingly used for long distance trains to lighten the load of the overburdened main station. This time, we were in luck… We exited our previous train, waited on the same platform for a few minutes, and along came our next train – just comfortably late. Finally, we had Berlin in sight!
Just over an hour late, we exited into a heaving Berlin Hbh. This station is incredible – it takes multi-level station service to new heights. It came into full operation in 2006 conveniently (desperate planning) in time for the Football World Cup in Germany. Being Friday late afternoon it was full, but with the generous design, the station worked very well. Our hotel was a five minute walk, across a busy road, once we had navigated to the right exit on the right level. Exhausted, we settled for an excellent pizza and pasta dinner nearby.
An incredible day in Berlin
As usual, we shunned the hotel breakfast and went on a hunt nearby. So dominated by the Haubtbahnhof, we entered into the warren of levels in search of another “Crobag”. Very disorientated – this way – that way – up – or was it down…. we found it. Pleasantly munching on our croissants and sipping coffee, we were attacked by sparrows – eyeing up our breakfast. One even jumped onto Lynne’s hand, grabbing a bite!
Refreshed, we met up with Peter’s friend from (ahum…. some years!) ago, Katharina, in the hotel lobby. What a joy – we chatted as if no time had passed at all. Luckily for us, Katharina had a plan!
History hangs heavily on Berlin. The memories and consequences of the terrible division between the West and East linger large even today. Katharina drove us to the Bernauer Strasse Memorial – a site extending along the former border strip. One must quietly reflect on those days in August 1961 when soldiers and workmen began the task of dividing the city with, at first, barbed wire, separating families, and homes and workplaces. The pavements bordering the former ‘Death Strip’ are marked with the name and year of each of the more than 140 killings by GDR border guards. A sobering experience.
Not far away, we immersed ourselves in the chilling feeling of being at the Berlin wall. We experienced an enormous surround screen, created by artist Asisi, inside a large cylindrical building. With eerie lighting and sharp, edgy audio of GDR propaganda speeches and radio from the time, you could easily feel that you were THERE. A superb and very emotional experience.
A short, unmissable stop at the Brandenburg Gate, where Peter had entered into East Berlin with Katharina and her sister Regina before the Wall was demolished. We avoided the long queues to enter into the Reichstag building, with its elegant glass cupola. Katharina had further sightseeing planned but first a stop by the delightful ‘Kleine Orangerie’, at Schloss Charlottenburg where we had a light lunch in the sun, consisting of potato soup, or potato salad with or without frankfurters – ‘with’, for Peter!.
Next stop on this fascinating tour was at the Olympic Bell Tower, out West, bordering on the vast forest of Grunewald. The 77m heigh tower provides an exhilarating view, reaching from Alexander Platz in the east to Potsdam in the west. At its foot is the 1936 Olympic Stadium, built to impress the world with Nazi power.
View from 77m height 1936 Bell The infamous stadium
Not over yet, we had one more historic visit – the ‘Bridge of Spies’ – Glienicke Bridge, by Potsdam. The bridge spans between East Germany and West Berlin, and was under Soviet control, only used by allied military personnel and diplomats. A dreary, threatening place, it was several times used to exchange captured spies, as depicted in the Tom Hanks movie, Bridge of Spies. Today, road traffic was lively, the boats were cheery and the mock-Tudor castle on the opposite bank, in the sunshine, looked lovely!
Here, Germany and Europe was divided
Time for the obligatory (and very welcome!) coffee and chocolate cake at Katharina’s and Hanjo’s house. Peter wasn’t certain until Hanjo opened the front door – but, yes, we HAD met before. Very briefly, in a past world. Strengthened by cake, we took a refreshing walk through Grunewald, enchanted by the fresh air of the approaching autumn, the interlinked lakes and the reclining sun.
Dinner at Der Kretaner, a joyous Greek Restaurant, offering impossibly large portions, ended up with only Peter accepting the offered free schnapps (not snapps!). We crossed the road, said fond farewells to Katharina and Hanjo, before diving into the U-Bahn system, making our way back to our hotel.
What a day. Fascinating, interesting, captivating but also very emotional, thinking of what happened not very long ago. But best of all was to see Katharina and Hanjo!
A wonderful day with you two in Berlin. I enjoyed it very much. Finally meeting you, Lynne, felt like if we had known each other already for a long time. And meeting you, Peter, as if we had met last one oder two years ago.
I also enjoyed being a tourist in my home town (Yes! – after 41 years).
Thank you for your amazing report of this day and also of the whole trip.
We hope to see you again soon.