28th Dec. 2023 – 19th Jan. 2024
Reflections on our Summer in the Southern Ocean
We really enjoyed our previous visit to the Antarctic Peninsula, in 2018. We were determined then, that we would come again, but also include the Falkland Islands and South Georgia. So, this trip was already on our bucket list when we returned from our World Trip last year. We found a late cancellation, as Lynne was idly reviewing the Polar Latitudes website, wondering what our next adventure would be after our World Trip.
And what an adventure we have had!
We sailed 3,200 nautical miles, or 6,000 kilometres, from the tip of South America, via the Falklands and South Georgia to Port Lockroy (64.49 degrees South), and back to Ushuaia. Mind you that’s less than half the distance from London to Ushuaia.
We were blessed with the weather. Many sunny days, some overcast, some rain and a little snow. In the sunshine Antarctica is so glorious, we were even more enchanted.
Wildlife
Our interaction with wildlife seemed unparalleled. We encountered over one hundred whales (Fin, Sei, Minke, Humpback and Orca), some almost too close! We also saw Commerson’s dolphins.
As for penguins, we were up close and personal (subject to a mandatory 5m distance rule) with seven different varieties (even Peter can now tell them apart). Rockhoppers, Magellanics, Kings, Macaronis, Chinstraps, Adélies and Gentoos. Literally over one million of them, and their fluff ball chicks. They are such a delight, funny to watch. We saw them feeding their chicks, defending their territory, calling their partners and we even learnt to tell the calls of the different species apart.
We saw them porpoising and washing in the water, and diving or hopping in and jumping out. And of course, the bright pink guano, caused by a diet of krill, which stank! Alarming to learn that the rescue party to find the crew from The Nordenskjöld expedition in 1902 had gathered an astonishing 6,000 penguin eggs for sustenance!
We encountered seals: Fur seals, Leopard seals, Weddell seals, Crab Eaters and the fearsome Elephant seals. We saw playing baby seals (hundreds of them) and cream coloured morph seals too. Cuties. Unfortunately, we saw dead seals, which have been more affected by Avian Flu than the penguins.
As for birds, it was a bird nerd dream. Different types of petrel, skuas, shags, cormorants, caracaras, terns, oystercatchers, sheathbills, gulls, prions, turkey vultures and of course, many types of albatross. We saw our first albatross in the Galapagos (a different type) and they remain absolutely beautiful, particularly in flight. We saw albatross chicks too.
Landscapes and Environment
We saw sea ice, brash, growlers, icebergs, glaciers and heard the groaning of the snow and watched some glaciers calving, but nothing compares to the world’s largest floating iceberg, A23a, which we were delighted that the Captain went out of his (our) way to show us!
We enjoyed interesting lectures, and were regaled with historical anecdotes and exploits. We learned about the wildlife and the environment. We delighted in the vistas and loved seeing them from sea level in our kayaks!
Our fellow passengers were great. We engaged with couples from Switzerland, Malaysia, Israel, South Africa, the US and even the UK! We enjoyed delicious and well portioned food, and they were super diligent about Lynne’s allergy to garlic. There was a free bar and (Lynne thinks) perhaps too many Mimosas and late-night Armagnacs!
We must acknowledge the fragility and impact of climate change and the loss of biodiversity on the region, which will affect the whole world. We saw the devastation caused by Avian flu. We will try and remember the things we can do at home to help take care of this planet.
Organisation
In 2018, we were incredibly lucky to book the Peninsular trip with Polar Latitudes – though through the Audley Travel agency. The voyage was the last one of the season, at the beginning of March. The weather was not very forgiving and the Drake Passage was ferocious. But we loved every minute of that journey – largely because of the fantastic environment we were experiencing, but also because of the Polar Latitude expedition leaders and ship’s crew.
We did not hesitate in booking the second journey with Polar Latitudes, though this time directly. We were rewarded with superb organisation, friendliness and knowledge by an engaging large team of experts. They try to ensure the passengers have as an immersive experience as possible, with two excursions most days, and treat us as adults!
We were fortunate to have Hannah as our amazing Expedition Leader, supported by a first class captain and Expedition Team. There are too many in the team to mention, but some stick out. Danny, our Historian, was a gem in dry wit and dramatic renderings of the men (no women..) that explored this forbidding continent, just over one hundred years ago.
Randy deserves a chapter all to himself. His mastery of literally thousands of songs on keyboard and guitar with backing tracks is awesome. And when the party gets going – he is right there, at the front! Lori; Education Coordinator, Conny; Passenger Service Manager, the Discovery Kayaking team, Kalle; our impressive photographer, Scotty; always cheerful and engaging Naturalist, Dr. Emily, who was very helpful. And more – all deserve a mention.
What a FABULOUS trip!
An unmatched, inspiring epic voyage. A heartfelt thank you to everyone who made this dream a reality.
Glad the trip lived up to your expectations (and maybe exceeded them) and you had such a memorable time.