13th January 2023
Brown Bluff
Our morning’s landing was at Brown Bluff, on the Antarctic Peninsular. One could theoretically walk all the way to the South Pole from here, but probably with a bit more preparation!
The bluff was created only about one million years ago as a result of a volcanic eruption within a sub glacial lake.
We had the opportunity to ascend to a view point, avoiding the penguin nests. It was steep, on loose volcanic stone and then determinedly across icy snow. The view of the sea and glacier was worth it, despite the overcast sky and the intermittent snowflakes.
We then walked along the beach home to Gentoo and some Adélies. A crowd of Adélies marched to the shore and then one by one they dived into the waves. The last one left it a bit late, as the waves receded and he landed on his face, on the pebbles on the shore!
Due to cold and poor visibility, we decided to skip the zodiac cruise and went directly back to the ship. We have seen so very many penguins, icebergs and wildlife, that we didn’t fear missing out!
Gourdin Island
During lunch we sailed through the Antarctic Sound to the west coast of the Peninsular, reaching Gourdin Island, famous as home to all three bush-tailed penguins: Gentoos, Adélies and Chinstraps. There was quite a swell as we descended from the marine deck onto the Zodiacs and as we crossed to the sheltered rocky landing. The rocks were slippery.
We walked between two rookeries and past a slumbering Weddell seal. What was fantastic were the tiny Gentoo chicks, two apiece being fed by a parent. Up a little higher were chinstraps doing the same. We even came across a rock which held all three species happily together.
We witnessed some angry exchanges with Adélies remonstrating with an invading penguin and chasing them away.
It was a magical spot.
Our subsequent Zodiac cruise before returning to the ship was curtailed, as the wind and thus the swell was picking up. Our zodiac bounced back the two miles to the ship, as we were soaked by icy water. Along the way we encountered a whale who dived less than twenty metres from our Zodiac. What a treat! The crew were magnificent in getting us aboard in the difficult sea, with marine decks on both sides of the ship open to allow boarding at the side with the least swell.
Once aboard we were treated to a display of humpbacks showing their flukes and pectoral fins. And as we dined and even as the sun set approaching midnight, we continued to see whales, almost a surfeit, but that’s impossible.
