June 26-29
After a bumpy night in narrow bunk beds, the Amtrak train approached San Francisco, having caught up with an hour’s delay. After an over-sized breakfast in the dining car, some packing of overnight toiletries, we emerged onto the Emeryville station platform.
San Francisco is on the opposite side of the famous Bay, so is not directly on the main train line. We had originally booked a bus to take us the final stretch, but were gratefully met by our friend Gerry, who lives in nearby Berkeley. We first met Gerry, a Scot, who has lived here for 26 years, on our Annapurna Base Camp and Bhutan treks in October last year. Getting on famously, it was a joy to meet up again.
On the way, San Quentin Sausalito on the Bay
Passing time most agreeably, we drove to Sausalito, a beautiful marina community on the North side of the bay, walking alongside the arty shops and rows of yachts. A light lunch, with Peter having the local sea chowder served inside a loaf of bread, followed by a windswept visit to a magnificent viewpoint over the Golden Gate Bridge.
Our hotel was located directly on the Fisherman’s Wharf, a stone’s throw away from the popular Buena Vista saloon bar, recommended by one of our dining companions. Fish and Chips was followed by their signature Irish Coffees, for which they claim historic significance.
Buena Vista Authentic Irish Coffee
After a late breakfast in a diner, we enjoyed a long walk up (and we use that word advisedly) Polk Street to find a thrift shop and a heritage cable trolley. The two kilometre walk was a delight, among the quiet backstreets. The buildings were beautifully adorned, and were the quintessence of old-fashioned gracious style. The famous steep hill streets dogged our route.
Lovely houses Hilly, here
The thrift shop visit was to donate a barely-worn silk dress that Lynne decided she did not need any more. It might be lightweight, but too heavy if it’s not used… The shop was easy to find; not so the cable trolley… We found and followed trolley rails and stops, but gaining useful information on lines and directions from the posters at the stops was impossible.
After some erratic meandering we managed to get the last two standing places on a trolley for the short ride back to our hotel. Our conductor was a cheerfully burly fellow, regaling us with both useful and useless information about the history and running of the cable cars. He asserted that the only remaining cars were here in San Francisco, Melbourne and Boston. Since we have had the joy of riding the cable car in Melbourne, we had better put this on our to-do list for Boston!
Once back in our room, it hit Lynne. Despite trying to avoid garlic at every restaurant, it has proved very difficult – either appearing as an unlikely ingredient or cross-contaminating something otherwise without it. Abandoning any attempt to visit some interesting places in San Francisco that we planned (aided by Gerry’s sage advice), Peter descended to the hotel restaurant for a ‘table for one, please’.
A new day, a new sunny outlook. Well, not so sunny – more cloudy and cold. Ten o’clock found ourselves, Lynne back on form, picked up by Gerry and Hua, setting the satnav to Napa! Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge again, the weather switched to sunny and warm. Microclimates around here are pretty extreme!
We were heading for the Oxbow Market, in downtown Napa. Coffee and mashed avocado on toast breakfast (ham and egg croissant for Peter) and a wander around the delightful market. The sun shone.
All sorts of delicacies Whisky inspection
We had a 1pm appointment at the Robert Biale vineyard, in the heart of the southern Napa valley. We had booked it online the day before, and it was such a delight! Only three ‘tastings’ were booked, as Hua only decided to join us after hearing that Oxbow market was on the itinerary. This was seen as a perfect scenario, as we now had somebody to drive us three tasters back to San Francisco! Thank you Hua!
The vineyard (winery?) specialised in red Zinfandel, which Peter had a special interest in. RB’s Elena placed us in the shade of a terrace, a few feet away from the vines. A tasting list was followed, with two ‘extras’ slipped in. The signature wine is named ‘Black Chicken’, which was admired by us all.
Starting off the tasting with the ‘extra’ Clementina, a white, based on the Greco grape (wow!), we received seven reds and a rounded history of the vineyard family and business. As we prepared to leave, we were caught by the Master Winemaker, Pat, who offered us a taste of the next vintage, 2023, directly out of the barrel. The barrel storage room was huge, and the French oak barrels were stacked high. There followed a short tour of the vineyard, and fond farewells.
Fresh oak from France Liquid capital This is where it comes from
We decided to return to San Francisco, freshen up (aka 40 winks) at our hotel and head off to dinner. Gerry had booked Green’s, an outstanding vegetarian restaurant with fantastic views of the Golden Gate Bridge at sunset. Except when the mist takes over – which it indeed did!
Eat your Greens Nightcap Martini
We enjoyed/endured a chilly, windy walk in the dark of Fort Mason Great Meadow Park before a late nightcap for the four of us at the hotel.
Well, I will have to go to San Francisco – although possibly without the flowers in my hair – as I have ridden the trolley cars in Melbourne & Boston. They do an excellent Cullen Skink in a loaf of bread at The Real Food Café in Tyndrum, the half-way point on the West Highland Way!
I hope to taste those excellent wines when we finally make it to the Napa Valley!
Hi Guys finally managing to catch up on all your travels. Loved San Francisco when we visited and Eric also had the seafood chowder served in a loaf of bread and enjoying the pictures of places we had been. So many interesting places to visit but just couldn’t believe the amount of poverty in such a rich city. We saw whole villages of beggars camped underneath the motorways.
Enjoy the rest of your travels and see you soon in Italy x